Our weekend break in Luxembourg was full of surprises; a city that’s unexpectedly small and walkable, packed with history and culture. And then there was the food! This tiny European capital combines the elegance of France, the gourmet delights of Belgium and the efficiency of Germany into one easy going package.
As we walked around the old town, I was struck by the number of tempting places to try the food in Luxembourg old town, so I’ve decided to take you on a gastronomic walking tour. History and culture are always more fun with a bite to eat or a cup of hot chocolate thrown in!
You can also read about our wine tour of the Moselle Region of Luxembourg
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Table of Contents
Place d’Armes at the heart of the city
Let’s start in Place d’Armes in the centre of Luxembourg old town, a tree-filled square with plenty of cafe terraces and a bandstand where you’ll often find live music in summer. The elegant Palais Municipal stands at one end and since its renovation in the last few years, is now used as a cultural centre, although it served as the Nazi headquarters during WW2.
On the Saturday that we visited there was a flea market full of granny’s best china and some more unusual items, like antique bird cages and piles of deer antlers. Who doesn’t need a set of deer antlers these days?
The sheep fountain
Let’s walk down the cobbled street at the side of the Palais Municipal until we reach another Luxembourg landmark, the charming fountain known as Hammelsmarsch or the March of the Sheep.
The bronze fountain, by sculptor Will Lofy, depicts the shepherds who would bring their sheep into town once a year to attend the annual Schueberfouer market, accompanied by a troupe of musicians. The cute children shelter from the dripping water under an umbrella and the accordion player is a self-portrait of the sculptor himself.
Oberweis for elegant patisserie
Once you’ve admired the fountain, be sure to pop into Oberweis, a family business established over 50 years ago that produces some of the best patisserie, chocolates and marzipan in town. There are five branches around the city but we’ll stop for a coffee or light lunch at the flagship store at 16 Grand-Rue.
Take your time to feast your eyes on the beautifully decorated tarts and cakes as you enter, with chocolates and marzipan towards the back of the store.
If the weather’s fine, take a seat at one of the tables outside or climb to the first floor for waitress service. Should the long list of patisserie on the menu be too perplexing, simply pop downstairs again to make your selection from the cakes on display.
You’ll be handed a ticket to give to your waitress telling her which to serve. We loved the seasonal marzipan – in September there were horse chestnuts with glowing brown nut and spiky green shell. Just the place to stock up with gastronomic gifts for the chocoholics back home.
Oberwis, 16 Grand-Rue, Luxembourg
Place Guillaume II– the food market and restaurants
From Oberweis let’s take a right down Rue du Fosse which will bring us to Place Guillaume II, the largest square in the old city. The square is named after William II, King of the Netherlands who ruled Luxembourg from 1840-1849.
Locals also know it as Knuedler after the knots in the belt of the Franciscan friars whose monastery once stood on this spot. Here you’ll find the town hall, tourist office and a if you’re lucky enough to be there on a Saturday or Wednesday, the market selling fresh produce will be in full swing.
Buy a picnic in the market
We wandered around the Saturday market which was truly a feast for the eyes, with one end devoted to flowers and plants and other areas a mixture of fresh fruit and vegetables with stalls of cheese, bread and deli produce thrown in. The aroma of freshly roasted rotisserie chicken wafted from at least three stalls and the picnic possibilities were plentiful.
At one stall baskets of dried sausages, at another rosy strings of garlic, while vegetables were beautifully laid out as if awaiting a prize at the village show. We treated ourselves to pretty pastel slices of nougat in pistachio, raspberry and almond and sat at the foot of King William’s statue eating the lunch we bought at the deli van.
Restaurants to try in Place Guillaume II
If you are not there on market day, fear not, as there are a number of other cafes and restaurants that we spotted in the square. Try one of these;
Kaempff-Kohler at 18 Place Guillaume II – have a look in their deli-shop specialising in cheese and wine and then find a table inside or on the outdoor terrace to order one of their cheese plates for lunch with a glass of local wine.
Brasserie Guillaume at 12 Place Guillaume II – right next door to Kaempff-Kohler, this brasserie is a fishmonger and fish restaurant combined. After you’ve admired their colourful window displays of seafood, take a seat and order the freshest of fish. They serve other things in the brasserie, but fish is the main event.
Beet at 32 Place Guillaume II serves vegetarian and vegan food in a trendy but informal cafe with a terrace on the square. Mostly organic and locally sourced, this is the less traditional but still delicious choice for a healthy lunch or dinner.
Cycling with the Veloh! bike scheme
If you need to work off your delicious lunch you may spot the bright blue veloh! bikes in the square and at bike stations around the city. They cost practically nothing so long as you can use your credit card to register at the machine and leave a deposit from your card.
Sadly the system was not working when we tried it and our card was not accepted but we think it’s a great idea! Now, let’s continue with our gastro-walk around the old town.
The Grand Ducal Palace
A few steps from the Place Guillaume II is the Palais Grand-Ducal, official residence of Grand Duke Henri of Luxembourg and the royal family. In fact the family spend most of their time outside the city but you’ll know if Grand Duke Henri is at home by the flag flying.
Apart from the mellow stone facade and the balcony where the royal family appear on special occasions, there’s not much to see from outside. The palace is open in July and August (information here) but other times you’ll have to just content yourself with watching the tourists having their photo taken next to the good humoured sentries.
The Chocolate House
Just opposite the sentry post is our next gastro-stop at Chocolate House, famed for the hot chocolate and other sweet treats you’ll find inside. As soon as I heard about the chocolate spoons that are served with hot milk to make the hot chocolate of your choice I knew I had to give this place a try!
Luckily Jennifer from Luxe Adventure Traveler had already bagged a prime spot when Guy and I passed by, so we joined her to order our hot chocolate and watch the world go by.
Those chocolate spoons come in over 40 flavours. They also serve enormous slices of cake and sell very pretty chocolates and marzipan inside too.
It was tough choosing between all the chocolate spoon flavours like lavender, hot chilli orange, almond raspberry and a few naughty alcoholic versions too. So, I brought a few home in my suitcase.
Chocolate House, 20, rue du marché aux herbes
The Statue of Grand duch*ess Charlotte
Just around the corner in Clairefontaine square, you’ll find the bronze statue of Grand duch*ess Charlotte. It was designed by the Parisian sculptor Jean Cardot and inaugurated in 1990 to commemorate the Grand duch*ess.
She was grandmother of the present Grand Duke Henri, who ruled Luxembourg from 1919 to 1964. After WW1 her sister Marie-Adelaide had to abdicate in favour of her sister, Charlotte.
During WW2 the Grand duch*ess and her family had to flee as Germany occupied Luxembourg. This created a focus for resistance in England and America.
Now we are just a short walk from the cobbled path known as the Corniche. It runs along the top of the cliff overlooking the lower part of the old town in the Petrusse valley.
This is the place to take your photographs from the “Balcony of Europe” looking down on the church of St Jean-Baptiste in the valley. It is now an arts venue and the green terraces and gardens that line the river banks.
Read about our wine tour of the Moselle Valley in Luxembourg
The Casemates
At the end of the Corniche you’ll get a view of the Casemates. This complex of tunnels and storage rooms were built into the rock face. They provided gun emplacements overlooking the valley to defend the Rocher du Bock fortress that stood at this point.
It’s easy to see why the fortress was such a key stronghold, with steep cliffs on both sides. It was dismantled at the end of the 19th century.
These Casemates were at various times used as ammunition stores, workshops, stables and garrisons. You can visit them and look out from the different openings down into the valley. Casemates are open daily March to November.
Unfortunately, the Casemates were just closing when we passed by. Let’s continue along the road with views across the other valley. Some museums stand on the opposite plateau of Kirchberg.
As we walk down the hill it is tempting to stop at the Beim Siggy brasserie with a sunny terrace bar overlooking the valley. Keen to get to the bottom of the valley for a river walk, we’ll continue, pausing briefly to investigate;
Rives de Clausen
The old Mousel Brewery by the river has been repurposed to make a lively nightlife scene. Nine different themed bars and restaurants crowd into the old brick buildings. All are overshadowed by the tall chimney.
It is quiet as we pass by in the afternoon. Later on you can eat, drink and be merry with live music. There’s anything from Brazilian to gourmet dishes and Belgian beer to sophisticated co*cktails. Rives de Clausen: 2, rue Emile Mousel
We continue our walk along the river over the arched stone bridge. We pass through the lower part of the old town, known as the Grund.
In these old buildings you’ll find a number of bars and cafes. We don’t have time to stop at any of them on our walk. However, you might look out for;
The cafes and restaurants of the Grund
Michelin star at Mosconi – If fine dining is your thing, you may like to reserve a table at Mosconi restaurant. The 8 course, Italian inspired set menu is served in an elegant dining room beside the river. Mosconi: 13 rue Münster
Café Des Artistes – If you’re after something more informal, try the cosy Cafe des Artistes nearby. There’s vintage posters covering the walls and a piano where you’re invited to tinkle the keys and sing along. Café Des Artistes: 22 Montée du Grund
Crossing the old arched bridge, we find the elevator that takes us back up to the upper level of the old town at the top of the cliff. If we decide to come back here in the evening, it runs until the early hours.
After our walking tour of Luxembourg’s old city, there’s one further gastro-stop later in the evening. We’re off for dinner at;
Restaurant Chiggeri
In an old townhouse, down one of the narrow cobbled streets of the old town, you’ll find Chiggeri. It offers dining experiences depending on your mood and budget.
On the ground floor is a Moroccan style winter garden and cafe. They serve ‘cuisine bourgeoise’ with plates of charcuterie and cheeses, tartiflette and steak tartare.
We, however, climb the steep wooden stairs to the top floor. It’s painted walls that seemed inspired by Maori tribal markings.
There’s a sophisticated four course menu and accompanying wines. The restaurant boasts an entry in the Guinness book of records for its selection of over 2000 fine wines.
Today’s menu includes a skewer of grilled scampi garnished with black olive oil and crispy strips of onion. A main course of grilled red mullet on a bed of risotto. Then, desert of strawberries in a sweet crispy pastry shell.
All quite delicious and with carefully matched wines recommended by our sommelier. This is the place to come if you want the fine food and wine in an informal setting without all the fanfare.
Chiggeri, 15, rue du Nord, Luxembourg
Where to stay in Luxembourg
We stayed at Hotel Le Chatelet, in a smart residential area that was a 15 minute walk from the heart of the old town. The hotel is a large townhouse with a restaurant and panelled bar on the ground floor and a handy car park.
It features 32 bedrooms on the two upper floors. The decor has a dark and trendy feel. Black walls combine with white and grey finishes and modern, industrial touches. The dark scheme was a bit love it or hate it and at times I felt I was in a nightclub on the morning after the night before.
Our room on the second floor was perfectly comfortable. It featured the same dark colour scheme, warmed a little by the aubergine carpet. The bathroom was large with industrial looking plastic flooring and those mirror lights you see in theatre dressing rooms.
With a curtained enclosure for a wardrobe, the room felt a little low budget compared to the elegant chandeliers and panelling in the public areas. Hotel Le Chatelet will suit stylish city-break couples looking for a quiet and convenient base that’s an easy walk from the old centre.
Hotel Le Chatelet, 2 Boulevard de la Pétrusse | Compare prices and book here
Read More about Luxembourg
Read about our Wine tasting in the Moselle Valley of Luxembourg
From LuxeAdventureTraveler: Unexpected Luxembourg: Fine wines and fabulous food
To plan your trip to Luxembourg
For more information to plan your visit to Luxembourg check out the Visit Luxembourg Website.
Looking for Airport Parking?
Heather used the Meet and Greet Parking Service at Heathrow, booked through Airport Parking and Hotels (APH). They offer airport parking at a range of airports across the UK as well as travel extras such as airport lounge booking and airport hotel stays.
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Our thanks to Visit Luxembourg who hosted* our weekend stay and Airport Parking and Hotels (APH) who provided our airport parking.
* More info on my policies page
This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com
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